The rain followed us all the way to Split.
This view of Split is from the bell tower and it not recommended for those with a fear of heights, like me. I loved it in Split. It’s a real city with real people and tourism is present but doesn’t dominate. It’s cosmopolitan but not too big and has plenty of nature, as you can see in photo.
The far end of the bay is the fisherman’s port, which supplies the daily fish market.
Looking back on the city from near the fisherman’s port. The palm trees are part of the Riva, a wide pedestrian street along the water with cafes on one side and ample seating on the other. It’s the place to be, day and night.
The row of buildings overlooking the water once formed the back of Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace. He retired here near his hometown and built a villa within a fortified town. Then, the water directly met the buildings edge for added protection and watching for approaching enemies.
The town walls were once 600 feet square but numerous renovations over time have altered the view.
Remnants of the palace dressed up with Roman soldiers. The sphinx is from Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose III.
Vast cellars beneath the palace that are an incredible feat. In 641, the abandoned buildings were used by villagers hiding from rampaging Slavs. They lived upstairs and carved holes in the floor (this ceiling) to dispose of garbage and sewage. The rooms filled with waste but since have been excavated and are used for events such as flower and fashion shows.
Trogir is another UNESCO heritage site with the small island on the right dating back to Hellenistic times, with a castle on the far tip.
One of the intriguing things about Europe from a North American perspective is not only the history, but living with history – striking a balance between preservation and destruction, restoration and modernity.
Other than the historical facades with glass towers now in favor, it seems that newer places can err in two directions – preserving a place to the exclusion of use or razing history in search for more dollars per square foot.
I appreciate how comfortable Europe is living with history. The front of Trogir’s castle is a landmark and a tourist attraction. From the back, another soccer field.
Back to Split, Marmontova is the main shopping street. More streets should end in the ocean! The fish market is on this street, just around the corner from the port. There are men wheeling flats of fish on ice up the street all morning.
Also, history on the left, new buildings on the right.
The fish market is a happening place to be. There are also fresh vegetable markets all over where we bought gorgeous produce with dirt still, homemade olive oil, and the best garlic ever.
Buying an assortment of shellfish.